20 Jan 2016

DRAFTING CORSET

Jill Salen black-yellow-corset: To start with this project, we got given a historical pattern from the book, Corsets: Historic Patterns and Techniques (available in Amazon or Google Books). This was the corset we had to recreate and adapt for our model. It is a Late 19th - Early 20th century corset. It is an over-bust type of corset, meaning that covers the breasts, and has a very beautifully, defined hourglass silhouette. The back is higher than the front and it is attached with cord or ribbon that pass through metallic eyelets, as it would be historically accurate to use them as well as the metallic split-busk fastening at the front and steel boning.
To draft the patterns we used dotted pattern drafting paper of an inch (distance in between dots) and simply followed the scale given at the bottom of our template and following the outline of the drawing.
TIP: To trace my patterns, I realised that it is easier to draw them across the paper in order and all in the same height as when its the time to measure and adapt, its is more comfortable.


Once I had my patterns drawn, I had to measure how much they were on the paper and how much I had to add in order to fit it to my model. I measured bust, hip, waist and height and the difference between the measurement of the historical corset and the measurement I needed, I just had to share the extra cm through the whole corset (to do that I cut my pattern pieces and then adapt them in pattern paper)

Once they were adapted, I cut them out and they were ready to do my toile!

TIP: REMEMBER not to add the seam allowance to your pattern pieces!


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